To our more modern palates, the ice creams did indeed taste homemade, and while they were not as creamy as their American cousins, the sundaes were more like sorbets and were very refreshing.

Tea and nostalgia over, we trooped toward the Nanshi Gourmet Square to stock up on edible souvenirs. No one leaves Tianjin without a box or two of mahua, or sugared dough crullers, a local speciality that is famous throughout the country.

If you are a dedicated gourmet, you may also want to take home a jar of Tianjin shrimp paste - intensely pungent stuff that ranks up there on the aromatic charts with Filipino bagoong or Malaysian belacan.

But then, you may take just one sniff and keel over.

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