为获得权威看法,我还咨询了一些内行人士,请教他们如何为自己选择衬衫。詹宁斯透露,贴身剪裁的衬衫如今特别流行,全美国的Saks百货店都在销售这种衬 衫。这种着装风潮,就类似于电视剧《广告狂人》(Mad Men)中1965年的都市职场。不过一件衬衫是否上档次,除了款式以外还有其他决定因素。
皮埃纳所在品牌生产的某些衬衫,已经成为世界上最昂贵的衬衫之一。不过皮埃纳却是穿着Brooks Brothers牌衬衫长大的,虽然如今的他只穿自己品牌的衬衫。他说,在选择衬衫时,自己首先看布料的品质和钮扣的厚度,然后是剪裁,并且只穿带有可拆 卸衣领插竹的衬衫,因为缝死在领子上的插竹经过一段时间就会变皱。
Francesco Trapani, the chatty chief executive of Bulgari, favors bespoke shirts from Italy's Micocci -- the same maker his father wore, he said. He cherishes each shirt; indeed, the one he was wearing when I chatted with him last fall had a rather frayed collar, and he conceded he needed to order some new shirts.
Meanwhile, Steve Sadove, chief executive of Saks Fifth Avenue, told me he prefers Charvet shirts.
A man can't go wrong with any of those choices. But most of these shirts, with the exception of Brooks Brothers', will set you back several hundred dollars apiece. Can quality be had for less?
待人随和的宝格丽珠宝(Bulgari)首席执行官法兰西斯科•特拉帕尼(Francesco Trapani)喜欢从意大利的Micocci品牌定做衬衫,这个品牌也曾是他父亲的选择。他很珍爱每一件衬衫。去年秋天我采访他时,他所穿衬衫的领角已 经有些磨毛了,他也承认,自己需要订一些新衬衫了。
而Saks百货首席执行官史蒂夫•萨道夫(Steve Sadove)告诉我,他偏爱巴黎Charvet的定制衬衫。
上面提到的这些牌子,无论怎么穿,都不会丢丑。不过除了Brooks Brothers以外,其中大部分都需要几百美元一件。能不能花较少的钱,买到同样品质的衬衫呢?
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